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The purpose of a door is to permit entry and exit into a room however, it must also provide protection from the elements when it is shut. Steel doors are a good method of giving security from intruders and fires. Also you will not need to worry about it rotting or being attacked by insects. Here is how to put in a steel door on your own.

How To Install A Steel Door And Frame

Required Tools

Pry bar

Drill and bit set

Hammer

Screw driver

Required Materials

Steel frame and door

2 inch screws

Nails

Wall board

Wall board tape

Shims

2×4 stock

Plaster skim coating

Metal studs

Instructions

If you are changing out an existing door, the first step is to remove the existing molding. Use the pry bar to pull the molding from the wall until all the molding right around is down. Take the screw driver and screw out the hinge pins and take out the hinges and the door; use the drill or pry bar to remove the door frame, sills and jams. Obviously if there was no door in the doorway, there is no need for this step.

Then comes the framing of the wall; ensure that the wall around the door is structural and set the frame in place. Nail a pair of 2×4 stocks together and put them inside the wall as a brace. Remove the studs on either side of the steel door frame and replace them with the metal ones and then screw the studs straight into the existing sill using the screws. Do the same to the header wall frame.

For the placing of the new steel door you will need the aid of another individual. With the aid of your companion set the door in front of the opening and then tilt it up and into position. Level the door with the shims and set it into place; the steel door and frame might come with interior supports to keep the door straight and square.

Using the shims place the door in position between the jambs and level it by adjusting the shims on either side. Use the 2-inch screws to screw the lockset side of the frame to the metal stud, only screwing the screws in about halfway and then screw in the hinge side of the frame also halfway. Move the shims to make sure the door is still level and plumb and opens properly and then tighten the screws. When the door is firmly in position take down the 2×4 frame braces.

You are almost done with your task to install a steel door and frame; all that is left is to patch the wall around the door where needed and take out the old wallboards and nail the new wallboard in place against the door frame. Plaster and tape the boards and you are finished.

Tip

The level and plumb readings may vary a bit when you screw the door and frame into the metal studs therefore look out for this and make corrections as necessary while you go along.

How to Build a Roof

Building a roof can be quite a task, however, with a little know-how it can be done. Here are a few tips on getting it done.

How To Build A Roof

Required Tools

Saw

Tape measure

Nail gun/hammer

Required Materials

2’x8’ lumber

Nails

2’x4’ rafters

Roof noggings/blockings

4’x8’ plywood sheets

Roof purlins

Roof sheathing

Roof underlay

Barge board

Fascia board

Corrugated roofing iron

Ridge capping

Barge flashing

Instructions

Cut your beam supports with a saw and use the nails and hammer to fix them to the front and back walls. Next measure and cut the roof beam to the required length out of the 2×8 lumber and nail it in position on top the of the beam supports. Then cut the 2×4 rafters to the required length and attach them to the roof beam.

Next cut more rafters to go between the end rafters along the roof (intermediate rafters) and nail them in position 2 feet apart. You will need to cut a nook called a ‘bird’s mouth’ in each of the rafters. If you are not sure how to do this look it up on the internet to see how it is done. Then cut 4 rows of noggings to put between the rafters; put the rows on each side of the wall’s top plates so that the exterior boards and battens will have something to fit into.

Cover the rafters with the plywood, putting in nails no more than 8 inches apart; cover the roof completely from the roof beam to the end of the rafters. Then nail the roof purlins horizontally across the plywood, overhanging each end of the roof by 1 inch. There should be a minimum of 3 rows of purlins. The bottom row of purlins should be flush with the ends of the rafters, a middle row and a top row close to the roof beam. Nail the ends of the roof sheathing to the bottom purlins from the underside.

Next nail the barge board to the edge of the purlins and flush with the top of the purlins. Join the barge boards at the apex of the roof and cut the lower end 6 inches past the rafters. Fix the fascia board between the barge boards and to the rafter ends and then cover the roof with self-supporting underlay.

Then comes the corrugated roofing iron; attach the roofing iron to the purlins with nails or screws, driving nails/screws into the top and bottom purlins at every second corrugation and driving nails into the intermediate rafters at every 3rd or 4th corrugation.

Put on the ridge capping and then the barge flashing. The barge flashing goes under the top of the ridge capping. Fix the barge flashing to each purlin and to the barge board.

Tips

All joins running parallel with the rafters must be on a rafter. Any necessary join running parallel with the Roof Beam, needs to be under a Purlin.

The roofing should overhang the fascia board by 2½ inches.

How to build an awning

An awning may be a wonderful addition to an outdoor space directly connected to any house. It can be very appealing and can add a decorative touch to any house, but, most notably, it is a great way to get shade during sweltering summers. Buying an awning will cost you a substantial amount of money, therefore it may be a wise choice to do it yourself.Building an awning is not an extremely difficult task to do and may be even less time consuming if you receive the help of someone willing and capable. If you already know how to operate a standard sewing machine then you should find it even less challenging to accomplish this task.

How To Build An Awning

Required Tools

Sewing machine with a large needle

Electric drill

Measuring tape

Pliers

Required Materials

2 key rings

2 support poles

2 screw hooks

4 grommets

4 stakes

4 sections of rope

Large piece of canvas

Instructions

For the initial part of the process you will need to decide on the exact location you will use when erecting your awning. Once you have done that you can then measure the area and consider how big you will be making your awning in reference to the style you would like to use. You should not be precise with the measurements when buying your material as a result of needing more extra space for your hem.

Once you have obtained your material you will need to sew a hem around it using your sewing machine to enhance its durability by preventingthe threading at the edge from unwinding. The best type of thread to use is one made from nylon which is more resilient in exterior conditions. Once you have carefully hemmed the entire section of canvas you can then install a grommet on each of the corners of your awning.

You will need to obtain your measuring tape again and take a measurement of the awning from the grommet to grommet. You will have to utilize these measurements to figure out where you will drill your two pilot holes. Mark the spot on your wall or wood siding and drill the holes that show the exact area where the awning will be affixed to your existing structure.

You will now need to screw the hooks into the pilot holes but ensure the holes have been properly drilled to make this possible or at least less difficult to accomplish. You may use your hands to do this additionally use a pair of pliers to fasten it more securely.

For the section of your awning that will be directly attached to your house you will have to install a key ring on each grommet. You can then hook one of the key rings to the hook and then do this once more for the other hook. This should be simpler if you are getting some assistance from another person who will can put up the other ring while you are doing your side.

You will need to stretch the awning so you can figure out where to install the support poles. The poles may be put in the ground or on a flat base that you have made for it to stand on. You will then need to run the top of the pole directly through the grommet of the awning.

Take a section of rope and tie it to two of your grommets that now have the poles running through them. You will then have to stake one portion of rope away from each awning pole and then get the other section of rope and place it adjacent to the original stake. This will mean that the poles will have lines that are supporting it to the sides and front. This is another point where some assistance will be useful.

Tips

When looking for fabric be certain to consider the colours now on your house. It would probably be best to get a colour that will match any colour you may decide to paint your house in future.

Once utilizing your drill be sure you are not close to any open water sources like puddles.

A patio cover is a covering which is affixed to a house to provide an additional usable area and extra shade. A patio cover can be built over an existing patio just for shade or it might be made in a formerly undeveloped area to create a patio. Patio covers can significantly enhance the general look and functionality of a home since it permits you to enjoy the outdoors without having to deal with unforgiving weather changes. The extra shade will furthermore help to keep your house cooler.

Since a patio cover may be such a useful thing to own and can additionally increase the worth of your home, it might be a good idea to consider one for your own home. To decrease cost you may opt to make one yourself because it is not such a complex job with a little know-how. As such here are a few guidelines to help you build a patio cover of your own.

How To Build A Patio Cover

Required Tools

Nail gun

Level

Framing square

Stapler

Drill

1½-inch drill bit

Required Materials

Post base

4×4 posts

2×6 boards

2×12 boards

Concrete anchors

Plywood

Tar paper

Roof Shingles

Metal screen

Flashing

Instructions

As with numerous other things, you can buy a patio cover kit that will provide you a design to work with, all the materials you need for finishing the design and even the tools you need for construction. But if you would prefer to try building a patio cover without the added help then read on.

The first step is to create a plan for your patio cover; some patio covers are completely covered while others provide partial sunlight. So settle on the design and dimensions yours will be. Once you have a design it’s time to go to your local zoning department to ensure that your patio cover is allowed and will not cause you trouble later on. As soon as you receive the go ahead it’s time to begin building.

Based on your measurements place the post base using the concrete anchors; put the 4×4 posts on the post base and nail them to the post base. Make the support beam by setting the double 2×12 boards into the roofline; following the design of the roof pitch, cut rafters and tails and next cut the ridgeline and set the rafter in position.

After this put a block between the rafter tails and drill three 1½ inch holes through the center of every third rafter. Staple a section of the metal screen to the inside of each of the blocks and then install the roof decking.

Set up flashings where the previous roofline meets the patio roofline and mount the tarp paper on the roof allowing an overlap of a minimum of 6 inches, working your way up from the bottom of the roofline. Put in a rain cutter and install shingles from the bottom up once more, overlapping the shingles as well.

Put up roof jacks on either side of the patio cover, 2 feet away from the ridgeline and complete the underside of the roof by putting up sheathing and any other insulation you choose.

Tips and Warnings

Some sections of the building progression will need the assistance of an additional person. So ensure that you have someone on hand to aid you.

keep in mind that there are various kinds of materials used to make patio covers, some are more cost efficient than others. Therefore make your selection based on your preference and how much you are willing to spend. If you opt to use wood, see to it that it is pre-treated to prevent rot.

Igloos were present long before block or wooden houses were widespread to provide inside warmth and shelter against weather elements. Everywhere individuals reside, they construct houses to adapt to the type of climate and living situations in that area. Likewise, individuals who live in Earth’s cold regions require a type of home to suit that particular weather. In these areas, construction resources are non-existent and as a hence the residents had to turn to what they had in large quantities, that is snow. The igloo has been tried and proven to be a living structure. It keeps its occupants warm by blocking wind, trapping body heat and because of the ongoing freezing eventually it gets warmer.

Igloos are also utilized by the exploratory like campers and skiers who require temporary housing. An igloo is quite simple to construct but generally needs two individuals to build. All it takes is a few simple tools to build one.

How To Build An Igloo

Required Materials:

Waterproof Gloves

Two rectangular boxed-shape containers that are topless and bottomless. One should be bigger than the next.

Water

Necessary Tools:

Snow saw

Snow shovel

Large knife

Directions:

1.Choose an area that has dry, hard-packed snow. Clear the area and mark out a circle in the snow ground, making it as round as possible in the ground.

2.Next you need four-sided blocks to start building the igloo. You can utilize two ways to acquire snow blocks specifically if you are working with a partner. One way to do so is to use the snow shovel to stuff snow into the larger rectangular container and stack it by ramming the snow into it so that it will develop into a hard block. If the snow is too dry, add a little water to it. Once it is entirely packed, hold the container in the air and beat on the top and shake to release the block. The other choice to get blocks is use the snow saw to cut blocks of ice from hard-packed snow.

3.Put the blocks all around the circle that you marked in the snow until the circle is done. Use your snow shovel to put loose snow between the blocks to cap gaps and hold them together.

4.Make another layer by repeating step 3. keep on putting blocks and forming other layers constantly slanting them toward the centre until just an opening is left at the top.

5.One person must now go inside the igloo to make sure that the blocks are correctly placed to complete the igloo. Cut a thinner block to fit the opening at the top and position it on top during which the individual inside trims it and makes sure that it is secured snugly into position.

6.Use the snow shovel to lift loose snow so as to fill the creases and open spaces in the igloo.

7.Dig a hole with the shovel in the shape you desire to form an a doorway to the igloo.

8.Once inside, cut holes in the walls and the roof with your knife to avoid suffocation.

9.Drip water over the igloo to seal spaces and toughen the blocks to make the igloo more safe and sound.

Tips:

When building an igloo, it is wise to use equal sized blocks as much as possible.

Make sure you wear gloves always to shield your hands from the cold temperatures while you work.

If you need more rooms, simply stack block onto the side of the igloo in the same way you constructed the original one. Dig entry inside the first igloo to enter the other room.

Here you can find more useful tips on how to build an igloo.

Underarm spots on garment are unappealing and if wrongly dealt with, they can damage your garments beyond repair. Underarm stains are one of the most stubborn types to remove and this is one instance in which pouring bleach on it, (even color safe bleach), might do more harm than good. Bleach will ruin colored clothes and might even cause worse discolorations on white clothes. Men especially will throw out their white undershirts once the discolorations get too bad. This becomes costly after the first 10 or so shirts end up in the bin.

How To Get Rid Of Underarm Stains On Shirts

Underarm stains are caused by the mixing of sweat and deodorant seeping into the fabric of the cloth and drying out. This results in the ugly and harsh smelling yellow and white discoloration. There are a number of ways to get rid of underarm stains on shirts, some of the best methods are described below.

For home remedy armpit stain removal, you will need any one of the following:

Required Materials

White Vinegar

Lemon juice

Aspirin

Instructions

White vinegar

Step one: Pour vinegar directly unto the stain.

Step two: Using a sponge, rub until the stain disappears.

Step three: Wash the shirt as you usually would.

Lemon juice

Step one: Using a fresh lemon or bottled lemon juice, apply the juice directly onto the stain.

Step two: Rub the juice in lightly.

Step three: Let the juice sit for half an hour. You can also put the shirt in the sun to treat more stubborn stains.

Step four: Launder the shirt as normal.

Aspirin

Step one: Crush 5 aspirin tablets and dissolve them in a half cup of warm water.

Step two: Submerge the stain in the water and soak for two hours.

Step three: Wash the garment as usual.

If the home remedies don’t seem to be working for you it is time to bring out the heavy duty treatment.

Required Materials

* Bleach

* Hydrogen peroxide

* Enzymatic cleaners

Instructions

If stains continue to be stubborn, you may have to try chlorine bleach. As mentioned before bleach will shorten the life of your garment. So only try this option if you have exhausted all the other options listed above. This is only safe to use on white garment, it will remove the color from all other materials turning them white.

Using bleach:

Step one: Soak the stained white garment in a mixture of one part bleach to 2 parts warm water.

Step two: Wash with other whites as usual.

With hydrogen peroxide:

Step one: Pour two teaspoons of hydrogen peroxide onto the stain.

Step two: Let the garment sit for a few hours then launder with other white clothes.

Using enzymatic cleaners:

These work by using proteins from living organisms to digest any organic material they come into contact with. This makes it especially helpful for stains caused from excessive sweating.

Step one: buy an enzymatic cleaner from the store.

Step two: depending on the dispenser, spray or rub the cleaner on the stain.

Step three: let the cleaner stand for as long as is directed on the instructions.

Step four: Launder as usual.

Tips and Tricks

1) To keep underarm stains from setting, you can try wiping your garment with baby wipes as soon as you get home. The alcohol will dissolve the deodorant and sweat and stop the stain.

2) If all else fails, try sending your clothes to the drycleaner. There is no need to be embarrassed, a stain is a stain and they will know how to remove it without damaging your clothing.

3) Do not soak clothes that are made of silk, linen or wool. Treat only the stain with one of the home remedies listed above.

4) Never iron or dry clothes that you have treated if the stain has not been removed. The warmth will cause the stain to set, causing it to be even more difficult or even impossible to remove.

Nothing can get more frustrating and irritating than to take out your beloved piece of clothing only to discove that it has been ‘decorated’ by ink. Ink is one of the most difficult elements to get out of clothes and somehow it always seems to raise its ugly head into a treasured outfit at some time or another. Persons who deal with children should be utterly acquainted with the scenario; no matter the washable crayons and markers you buy for them, they somehow find a pen to tarnish their attire. If it’s from a pen or printer, trying to eliminate ink from material is often complicated. If you can relate to this problem and you want real ideas on how to get rid of ink from clothes then continue reading for proven means.

How To Get Ink Out Of Clothes

Method #1 – Using Hair Spray

Materials Necessary:

Sponge

Hairspray

Two pieces of paper towels

Small basin with clean water

Small basin with warm water

Needed Tools:

2 clothes pins

Instructions:

1. Moisten the sponge in the regular water that is in the basin. Ensure that the sponge is clean.

2. Dab the stain steadily using the wet sponge.

3. Repeat the dabbing until you are unable to lift away anymore stain from the cloth.

4. Use the clothes pins and hang the clothes to dry.

5. Whenever the clothing is entirely dried, spray the hairspray directly onto the stain. Do not overspray.

6. Place one paper towel underneath the material and the next on top so that the stain touches the paper towels. The cloth should be placed between the paper towels.

7. Blob the stain with the paper towel from underneath the clothing and repeat until the stain has been totally removed.

8. Wash the clothing using warm water and hang to dry.

Tips and Warnings:

If the kind of ink on the clothing is permanent, you may not succeed to totally eliminate the stain but fade it to a good extent.

The earlier you try to remove the ink, the simpler it will be to eliminate.

If you are working with a delicate cloth, ensure that you dab lightly to avoid any damage.

Method #2 – Using Hair Conditioner

Necessary Materials:

Hair conditioner

Container with warm water

Required Tools:

2 clothes pins

Directions:

1. Rub on a small amount of hair conditioner straight on the stain and rub it in appropriately.

2. Smear a small amount on the opposite side as well and rub in.

3. Put the clothing in the pan with warm water and leave to soak ideally overnight. Your stain should fade away by the next morning.

4. Wash the clothing normally and hang out to dry.

Tip

Remember, if the ink is permanent, it might not be totally eliminated until after numerous washing.

Method #3 – Using Bleach (if you are working with plain white clothing)

Required Materials:

Bleach

Container with water

Required Tools:

2 clothes pegs

Directions:

1. Look at the bleach bottle for the approved amount to use.

2. Pour the approved amount of bleach in the container with water and stir to distribute throughout the water.

3. Place the clothing in the water and leave to soak overnight.

4. Wash normally and hang to dry.

Warning

Never pour bleach right onto material as it will impair it.

Method 4 – Using a Detergent Pen

Required Tools:

Laundry detergent pen

2 clothes pins

Directions:

1. These pens are specifically made for small stains. All you have to do is blot the stain with it until it vanishes.

2. Wash the clothing like you normally would and hang to dry.

Here’s more information on how to get ink out of clothes.

So, your fridge is leaking water down the inside, and it is collecting on the bottom of it and spoiling your food in the process. Don’t throw that fridge out yet! It may be time to clean out your drain.

How to Repair a Leaking Refrigerator

Required Tools

Screwdriver (Optional)

Cooler

Required Materials

Pipe Cleaner

Water & Vinegar

Instructions:

1.First, you will be required to check your “water cup” if you have a traditional freezer-on-top setting. This is going to be found at the back of the fridge, behind the dials and light. You may need to remove the dials and light using a screwdriver. After locating the cup, check to see if it is filled with liquid. If it is, this is generally a good symbol that the drain hose in the back is stuffed up.

If you have a side-by-side setting, the drain hole will be in the back of the freezer at the bottom. You may need to remove the condenser to reach it. If it is clogged, there is more than likely a good amount of ice on it as well. This will be a good sign it is clogged.

2.If the container is full, then you should suck out the water with a turkey baster. If the container can be taken out, you can take it out and wash it with warm water. While it is out, you will be able to pour a 50/50 vinegar and water mixture down the drain tube. This will clear it out and keep it from freezing up on you. A pipe cleaner may help cleaning out especially clogged drains.

If the side-by-side has it’s drain clogged, you may need to unplug it and wait for the drain to unthaw. Use the cooler to put your food in so that it won’t melt, and you can even rest it in the refrigerator and close the door to keep it cool in there while it is unplugged. It may last as long as 4 or 5 hours to unthaw.

3.If you have the standard configuration and it continues to leak, check the drain in the freezer. It must be found underneath the coils in the rear. Run some water and vinegar through the drain to see if it is blocked. If it is clogged, you can put your frozen food in a device; unplug it and wait a while. This should thaw the drain; once unfrozen, run water down it to see if it is unclogged. If not, use the pipe cleaner and see if you can stick it down there to get it unclogged.

Tips & Warnings

If your refrigerator is leaking on the floor, there could be multiple problems. Go to the manufacturer’s store in the resources section for the potential problems.

Here you can find more information on how to repair a leaking refridgerator.

Building deck stairs is not difficult to do. Anyone with basic building knowledge or a healthy sense of adventure can build a safe and appealing set without leaning into too many problems. This guide gives information on how to build deck steps yourself to economize on the fee for a contractor.

How To Build Deck Stairs

Preparation for design and construction:

The Total Run is the entire horizontal distance covered by the staircase, from the corner of the deck to the edge of the staircase

The Total Rise is the entire vertical length from the surface of the landing to a point level with the surface of the upper floor

Run is the horizontal length from the leading edge of one tread to the leading edge of the following tread.

Rise is the vertical length from the surface of one tread to the surface of the next tread.

The ratio of the total rise to total run defines the incline of the stairway. This may always fall in the range of 30 and 35 degrees. Typical riser height is roughly 7″ with an 11″ run (standard lumber stock breadth)

The width of the stairway might be around 48 to hold one person and roughly 60 for two.

Stairways are constituted of four parts:

1) Stringers – sloped members that support the stairway usually created from 2x10s with no large knots that are made from redwood or cedar, to resist decay.

2) Treads – horizontal boards that you walk on. When fabricating deck steps they are constructed from similar material as the deck.

3) Risers – vertical planks behind every tread.

4) Railing – made from posts, a cap rail and vertical balusters between each post. 4×4 is the most familiar post material with a 2×4 handrail.

Designing the deck stairs

Determine the total rise and divide the number by 7 to obtain the number of steps you will require. If the result is a fraction approximate to the nearest whole number

Divide the entire rise by the resulting whole number to determine the height of each riser.

Making the deck stairs

Step one: find the total rise and divide the figure by 7 to find the number of steps you will require. If the result is a fraction round off to the nearest whole number

Divide the total rise by the resulting whole number to find the height of each riser

Building the stairway:

Required Tools/ Materials

2×10 Stringers

5/4″ or 2″ Tread Material

Angle Iron

Hex Bolts

8d Galvanized Nails

Hammer

Measuring Tape

Joist Hangers

1×8 Risers

2×6 Pressure-Treated Cleat

Anchor Bolts

16d Galvanized Nails

Baluster Material

Carpenter’s Square

Adjustable Wrench

Instruction

Step one:

Notch the stringers for the treads and risers. Fasten two stair gauges to a carpenter’s square to the specifications of the rise and run you have calculated (for instance, set the square on the stringer so the gauges are flush against the edge and follow the notch on the edge of the square).

Step two:

Work your way down the stringer, until you have set out the right number of notches. Use the carpenter’s square to position the top cut on the stringer.

Step three:

Put the stringer on the lower floor by bolting it place with a piece of angling iron.

Step four:

Once the stringer is secured, cut the notches partway using a circular saw and complete the cuts with the handsaw.

Once you have one stringer done, put it in position to make sure it is cut properly, then use it as a guide to lay out your cuts on the other stringers.

Step five:

Measure the length from the front of the riser to the edge of the notch cut, then pull the treads to breadth so they extend 1″ to 1-1/8″ beyond the edge of the notch. If you’re using two planks side by side as treads, rip half the proportion from either plank so both will be the same breadth. Cut the treads to length and nail them to the stringer with 16d galvanized nails.

The square root of the result gives you the requisite stringer length; approximate to the nearest standard lumber length, then multiply by the number of stringers you’ll require.

Tips and Warnings

Local building codes determine the breadth and incline of a staircase, as well as how the assembly is supported and braced, how the landing is made and whether railings are required.

Constantly check with local construction authorities to guarantee that you have the right licences and are in compliance with all codes.

Here’s more information on how to build deck stairs.

There are very few things that surpass watching children play with their playthings. It is normally the consequences that are tough to deal with. It is comprised of a range of dolls trucks, mini cooking sets, blocks and lots of other unidentifiable things that make a bunch of noises when stepped on from being left on the ground. When it becomes time to teach children to clean up their own toys and put them away, parents will need the right tools to encourage them. A toy box or toy chest is just the thing. These are simple wooden boxes designed with a cover that are available in a range of sizes that youngsters can put their playthings in when playtime is finshed. A great project for parents can be building a toy box for their kids. This guide will help.

How To Build A Toy Box

Required tools and materials

Two 1 x 10 boards, 4 feet long

One 1 x 8 board, 6 feet long

3/4″ thick Plywood or particleboard,

Three hinges with screws that open past 90 degrees but less than 180 degrees

Six 2 1/2″, double-wide corner braces with screws

Sandpaper

Satin polyurethane spray finish

Wood glue

Handsaw or Circular saw

Screwdriver

Drill

Four plate thick, soft rope (for handles)

4 bun feet

4 felt pads (to go under the feet)

10 brackets

Tape measure

Instructions

Step one: Cut out the pieces for the toy box

Using tape measure, Measure and tag 135 inches on the 2 1 x 10 boards that are 4 feet long and cut with the saw. What will remain are 2 1 x 10 in pieces 34 long and 2 1×10 pieces 135 inches long.

Cut the particle board to 32.5 x 135 inches or have it done for you at a lumberyard.

Make the double lid in this design by cutting the 1 x 8 board immediately down the center.

Step two: assemble the cut pieces

On a even surface, screw six corner braces in place, 2 on the each of the longer sides and one on each of the two short sides that will be the bottom of the toy box.

Join the 32.5 x 135 inch particle board with the other sides of the braces.

Step three: Add the lids

Screw the six trap hinges into position. The lids will open so that they lie even against both sides of the box when open for easy access to toys.

Step four: Disassemble, sand add holes for handles

This is to put on the finishes and paint without getting any on the braces, screws and hinges. Remove all of these and place them away.

Sand all the pieces of wood smooth to prevent splinters later

Drill two 1/2″ or 5/8″ diameter holes in each end of the box to be used for handles

Step five: Put On finish

Spray a clear polyurethane finish on the wood, inside and out. If you want to paint the box another colour or add other designs, do this before the polyurethane finish is used.

Step six:

When the finish is dry reassemble the box, using wood glue to reinforce all the corners. Be sure not to apply wood glue to the lid.

Pass heavy, soft rope through from the outside, tying overhand knots on the interior.

Step seven: Add the feet and complete

Attach the feet 2 inches from both the length and width edge of the box. Screw downwards from the interior of the box. Add furniture glides to provide movement and prevent damage to wood floors.

Your toy box is ready to use!

Tips and warnings:

Apply polyurethane spray in an open area using masks and goggles.

Also use masks and goggles when sanding and drilling.

Let’s learn how to build a toy box for your kids at home.